Diyarbakir (Amida), AD 502-503

AD 502-503
The second siege of Amida came almost 150 years later. That century and a half had largely been a peaceful one. The Persians seemed satisfied with the new territory gained after Julian's death and contented themselves with only interfering in Armenia. This new found peace was aided by a series of crises that affected the Persian empire. This time it was their turn to come under barbarian attack, and a series of monarchs were defeated by the Hephthalites who invaded the eastern regions of the empire from their territory in modern Afghanistan and Pakistan.

The most disastrous campaign was that of Peroz. Defeated in one encounter he was forced to leave his young son Kavad as hostage with the Hephthalite king. Unwilling to let this humiliation go he broke his oath and returned to Hephthalite territory where at Herat he was tricked into leading a cavalry charge across concealed pits and killed along with most of his army. His son Balash was able to piece together a new government in Ctesiphon, but this brought him into conflict with his remaining brothers. Kavad, who had been released by this point, fled to the Hephthalites and was able to convince them to support him in his efforts to take the throne from his brother. With their army backing him seizing his kingdom was easy. While Peroz had maintained favorable relations with the Romans, who had even supported him in his campaigns against the nomads reasoning that they did after all threaten both sides (the Huns were considered the kin of the Hephthalites), Kavad with his huge debts to the Hephthalites found himself strongly in need of funds but with little use for the minimal Roman support or peace. And their lands were a rich and very tempting way to rebuild his kingdom's wealth.

Diyarbakir (Amida), AD 359

Diyarbakir is a bustling city in the southeastern part of Turkey. Located about 80 kilometers north of the Syrian border, it is the capital of Diyarbakir province and the unofficial capital of Turkish Kurdistan. As you might imagine that doesn't make it the safest place to be right now, although when I went the Kurdish PKK still had a truce with the Turkish government and Daesh had yet to execute any (proven) attacks on Turkish soil. I got in and out just in time too. Nine days after I left the city a Daesh suicide bomber killed 32 youth activists in Suruç (in Şanlıurfa province about 200 km to the west) and shortly after that the PKK murdered three policemen in Diyarbakir in revenge. Now the entire region seems poised to begin a new wave of violence as Turkey takes advantage of the chaos to their south to crack down on their Kurdish problem, all in the name of fighting extremism. Yay.

So what made Diyarbakir worth the risk? The old city of Diyarbakir contains a nearly complete set of circuit walls that have survived with few modifications from the late Roman period. More impressive considering this fact is the city's classical antecedents. Once upon a time it was the city of Amida (even today the city is often called Amed in Kurdish). The capital of the province of Mesopotamia, this city produced many important figures but is most famous for undergoing two well-recorded sieges during late antiquity. These sieges are so well recorded in fact that in conjunction with the surviving city walls it is possible to actually identify many of the features in them. For that reason what follows will be a description of the sieges themselves as illustrated by the surviving remains. Due to space constraints this section will only cover the first siege under Constantius and Shapur II while the second will cover the siege under Anastasius and Kavad.

RIP Turkey

Since my trip failed this section is devoted to the areas I intended to cover.

Bethlehem

I was only in Bethlehem for a short time and I never really got out of the car. I got fleeced by an Israeli couple who ended up making 500 shekels off me. The original offer was 400 to get me to Tel Aviv where I would spend the day, and then they would drop me off at the airport. That would have been worth it. Then he basically insisted on taking me to Bethlehem (because I'm American and therefore a devout Christian) spouting a lot of nonsense about how he was one of the only ones who could get me through. While it is true that you can't pass through on foot, getting there is not as difficult as he made out. Certainly not for a white American who just screams tourist. After getting there (and not stopping since he said it was too busy for me to get into any of the churches) we went back where I found that the price had doubled. Doubled for a ten minute stop over! I was utterly disgusted. I had to say to screw Tel Aviv and just have them drop me off at the airport for 500 shekels. Worse than that he wanted me to be happy about it. I was sitting in the back seat fuming quietly and he told me to be friendly because I got a great deal. I can handle being fleeced, but I draw the line at having people tell me I should be thankful for it. I may have gotten ripped off in Jordan but at least there it was only business. I wasn't expected to like it. Which made this an absolutely rotten end to an excellent trip.

Acre

COMING SOON

weew

Nazareth

COMING SOON
After all the wonderful places I have been Nazareth was a huge disappointment. There is really nothing there worth seeing. I'd have been better off going to Tiberias and seeing the Sea of Galilee.

Jericho

Jericho is possibly the oldest city in the world, having been inhabited since around 9500 BC. That's a long time! It's also probably the lowest city on Earth, being about 800 feet below sea level. It's still an important place too, being not very far from the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge Crossing into Jordan. It's the largest city in this part of the West Bank and even gets its own governate. Despite that, the city's not really the nicest place to visit. It's a bit of a rough town and when I visited there was some sort of curfew in effect. There are however some very nice places nearby, including the ancient city itself.

The Dead Sea

COMING SOON

Masada

COMING SOON

Qumran

COMING SOON

Jerusalem

COMING SOON

Jerusalem is amazing. Full stop. I think that it is the single most amazing place that I have ever been. It certainly gives Petra a run for its money. While Petra is all about the glory of the desert and the abandoned monuments, Jerusalem is very much a living city. There is nowhere I've been that can compare to it. And I got to spend most of a week there. Yes!

Petra

 

 What can I say about Petra? Everyone must go there. It is likely the most beautiful place on the planet. It says a lot that once you get past the flashy stuff at the beginning it still finds ways to impress. For those who don't know this is where they filmed the end of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. It was the resting place of the Holy Grail at the end of the Canyon of the Crescent Moon. There's a reason they used this site. It is the most impressive entrance that one can get to a city. More on that when I get there.

The King's Highway

There's not much to say about the King's Highway except 'Wow.' It goes through one of the most beautiful stretches of country I've ever seen. I understand that the portion north of Al-Karak is even more impressive since it has the Dead Sea. At any rate there is nothing along this road except for fantastic desert scenery and the occasional small town or farm. Until you get further south you don't run across any junctions or roads going East to hook up with the main highway. You just have this one little road winding through nowhere.

This stretch of road goes back for centuries. Back before cars when flat terrain was valued less than a supply of fresh water this was the main trade route through Jordan. It was certainly around at the time of the Crusades since Kerak was located where it was in order to control the trade. The Bedouin still travel this route with their sheep and caravans, although they avoid the road. We saw several groups of them as we rode through. One group even waved at us. Speaking of Bedouin I'm told by one of my taxi drivers that they're terrible with cars. Apparently they think that driving a car is like riding a camel and can never get used to the speed. Florida has its little old ladies, California has its teenagers, and Jordan has its Bedouin.

Kerak

Ah Al-Karak. It's a small city now but back in the day it used to be nothing but a Crusader castle on a hill. It used to be the home of Reynald de Châtillon, Lord of Outrejordain, who royally pissed Saladin off by raiding a convoy and contributed to the fall of the kingdom of Jerusalem. If you've seen Kingdom of Heaven you may remember this castle from that. In that movie they turned this:

 Into this:

As with everywhere else in that movie the castle had to be flat and lifeless while the real Kerak is on a hill surrounded by many other hills. Al-Karak (the name of the modern town) is the capital of the Karak Governorate and is located about halfway between Amman and Petra. It seemed like a logical place to stop since I knew the castle was supposed to be nice and I needed to get to Petra. The guidebook recommended I not do that and the guidebook was right. Unless you're driving it's probably best to go straight to Petra if you're on a tight schedule. Getting a ride to Petra turned out to be impossible. During the summer that might not be true, but I was there in January and there weren't enough people wanting to go to justify a servee. More on that later.

Jerash

Having arrived in Tel Aviv on Thursday I began to work out my plans for the trip. I had a list of places that I wanted to see but I had kept my schedule intentionally free. That was a good thing because the Middle East is a very religious place (Surprise Surprise). Strangely enough, Israel seems to be more religious than its immediate neighbors. It has a hint of theocracy about it and what that means in practical terms is that everything shuts down on the Sabbath. Most businesses including many restaurants and stores are included in this, as well as all the buses and museums. So being in Israel on a Saturday is pretty dull.The Christian, Armenian, and Arab quarters of the Old City (where I was staying) didn't all keep to this but it would have seriously hampered my movements to remain. So I took my trip across the border to Jordan a little sooner than planned. While I did get a chance to see a bit of Jerusalem that night I'm leaving that 'till the Jerusalem section later because I saw most of the city during the day after I got back from Jordan.

Getting there wasn't as easy as I'd have liked. First of the there are three border crossings to Jordan. The Sheikh Hussein one is in the north below the Sea of Galilee and the Eilat/Aqaba one is at the far south border of both countries. The third one is the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge which is near Jericho just north of the Deas Sea and is a real oddity for several reasons. Firstly they don't issue visas which means that you have to get one from the Jordanian embassy in advance. Second, it's in occupied Palestine which means that there is a mass of legal loopholes concerning it. For example, as far as Jordan is concerned people using the bridge are going into Palestine and not Israel which is good for all those people who don't want an Israeli stamp on their passport (ie. if they're traveling into any other country in the area apart from Egypt. Those are the only states that recognize Israel as a nation). Israel doesn't see things that way but are content to let in the visitors using that loophole provided that they go through a typically rigorous security check. The other strange thing about the border is that you can't take your vehicle across. That wasn't a problem for me since I was taking buses, but it must be annoying for anyone else. Fortunately, I was aiming for the Sheikh Hussein crossing in the north. My plan was to make a 2-3 day trip of it starting in the north and working my way down to the Aqaba crossing.

Crossing borders in the Middle East (or at least Israel) is a long and sometimes complicated procedure. Anyone who doesn't realize that Israel has security concerns should really not be visiting since they are probably suffering from a severe brain injury. The Sheikh Hussein Crossing consists of two different checkpoints and about a mile of no-man's land in between. You go through the Israeli side, get your passport stamped to certify you're exiting the country, pay the visa fee, and then you pay for a bus to go to the other side of the border. Once there the Jordanian authorities will ask you the same questions and charge for them to stamp your passport. They do issue visas on the spot, but the whole process takes about an hour and a half to two hours. Unfortunately for me that meant I missed one of the main attractions at my first stop, Jarash.